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Gilding methods for jewelry – a comparison of methods

Gilding jewelry is the process of applying a thin layer of gold to the surface of another metal—most often stainless steel, silver, or brass. This gives the jewelry a prestigious appearance, allowing the wearer to enjoy the aesthetics of gold at a lower cost than solid alloys.

However, not every gold plating method guarantees durability and abrasion resistance . In this article, we explore the most popular gold plating technologies, analyze their advantages and disadvantages, and explain why PVD gold plating used by METINI is considered the highest standard in modern men's jewelry.

What is the difference between gilding and solid gold?

Gold plating is merely a coating—a thin layer of pure gold (e.g., 18k) applied to the surface of another metal. Depending on the application method, thickness, and substrate, this coating can have varying durability.

Solid gold (e.g., 14k, 18k) is a precious metal alloy with a significantly higher price. While durable, it is also softer, more susceptible to scratching, and less cost-effective for the production of large items (e.g., massive chains).

Main gilding methods – overview

1. Electroplating (electroplating)

How does it work?
It involves immersing the jewelry in an electrolytic bath with gold ions and passing a current through it, which deposits gold on the surface.

Advantages:

  • popular and cheap method,
  • relatively even coverage.

Defects:

  • low durability (0.1–0.3 microns),
  • the coating wears off easily with everyday wear,
  • susceptibility to contact with water, sweat and perfume.

➡️ Not used in METINI – too fragile for high-quality jewelry.

2. Gold-filled (mechanically pressed layers)

How does it work?
It is a mechanical process in which a layer of gold (minimum 5% by weight) is permanently bonded to a brass core under high pressure and temperature.

Advantages:

  • better durability than galvanization,
  • more scratch-resistant.

Defects:

  • limited precision of detail,
  • possible peeling with prolonged use,
  • mainly used in thin jewelry such as chains and earrings.

➡️ METINI does not use this method – it is too visually limited for massive weaves such as Cuban or Royal.

3. Gold plating using the PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition) method

How does it work?
This is a modern vacuum technology in which gold vapor is deposited in a chamber on the surface of the jewelry (e.g., 316L stainless steel). The process takes place in extremely clean conditions, ensuring excellent adhesion and resistance.

Advantages:

  • up to 10 times more durable than galvanic plating ,
  • resistance to scratches, abrasion, moisture and sweat,
  • high precision of coverage – ideal for patterns such as Cuban, Figaro, Royal,
  • no toxic chemicals – environmentally friendly method,
  • deep, intense shine.

Defects:

  • higher production cost (but much lower than solid gold),
  • requires advanced technology and quality control.

PVD gold plating at METINI – premium quality

At METINI, we exclusively use PVD gold plating on 316L stainless steel. Our chains and bracelets are:

  • Double-plated with 18k gold ,
  • tested for mechanical and chemical resistance,
  • covered by a lifetime warranty , which covers, among other things, the durability of the coating.

This means that even with everyday use – whether at the club or at work – METINI jewelry will retain its appearance for years.

Comparison of gilding methods

Method Durability Abrasion resistance Color depth Cost Used in METINI
Galvanic ❌ low ❌ low mean short ❌ NO
Gold-filled ⚠️ average ⚠️ moderate All right mediocre ❌ NO
PVD (vacuum) ✅ high ✅ very high deep, lasting higher ✅ YES

Does PVD gold plating wear off?

This is the most frequently asked question – and rightly so. The answer: yes, but very slowly and under specific conditions .

If you wear jewelry daily, exercise, or expose it to chlorine or acids (perfumes, detergents), its shine may gradually fade over many months. However:

➡️ At METINI, we provide free jewelry replacement under a lifetime warranty – because we believe in the quality of our gold plating.

Summary – Why is PVD the gold standard in men's jewelry?

  1. The greatest durability of all methods,
  2. Resistance to everyday use,
  3. Intense, deep color of 18k gold,
  4. Safe and nickel-free technology,
  5. Perfect for massive METINI jewelry – Cuban, Royal and Figaro weaves.

See what PVD gold looks like in practice:

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